DIY Resinous Flooring Installation Guide

Check out the original post - DIY Resinous Flooring Installation Guide - from USA’s Top Aggregate Manufacturers or read it below.

To avoid mistakes in your DIY resin floor installation, you’ll need a smart plan.

Resinous floor installation can sometimes be done by home improvement enthusiasts.  Installing without a certified professional can save you on labor costs.  But, you should weigh the risks and hefty costs of amateur errors.  Your plan must include the right team and materials for a successful installation.

The decision to install own resin floor should not come lightly.  Resins can be very temperamental and prone to flaws prone to flaws from small mistakes.

Proper planning is essential to any resin installation, even for seasoned contractors.  Replacing a ruined resin floor will cost you big on time and money.  So, it’s important to get it right the first time.

If you’re set on a DIY approach, we will unpack the essentials of resin floor installation.

We'll answer all your biggest questions.

• What are resin flooring systems?
• Should I perform my own resin floor installation?
• What are the step to install a resinous floor system?
• What tools and materials do I need to install a resin floor?
• How do create a decorative resinous floor?

We’ll break down the essential steps once we’ve reviewed the basics.

Disclaimer: You should consult with your product manufacturer for their intended installation process.  This guide will present common practices with resin floor application.  But your situation or products may require different methods.  When in doubt, hire a professional flooring installer.

The Basics of Resin Flooring Systems

What is resinous flooring?

Resin flooring is a system of liquid layers that chemically harden.  The result is a durable, sanitary, protective surface.  Each layer has a unique purpose to build your completed floor.  These floors are ideal for heavy activity, long-term wear, and visually stunning design.

Resin floors begin as a substance similar to glue.  They harden for an extended-life flooring system.  These floors can endure intense wear while providing safety and easy cleaning.

Multiple parts in the form of layers may be needed to compose a resin floor system.  From base to surface, every section plays an important role in your completed floor.

Full customization is available for your resin floor.  This includes its visual and practical benefits.  You should optimize each layer based on its purpose and your use cases.

Check out our full Resinous Flooring Guide for more info.

Should You DIY Your Resin Floor?

If you consider installing your own resin floor, you should keep some things in mind.

First, we highly encourage you to work with professionals.  Resin flooring contractors with certifications can save you time and money fixing your own mistakes.

Warranties can also be voided if you do not prepare your space properly.  Moisture, substrate defects, and improper curing can all render your warranty invalid.

Professionals have years of experience in navigating common mishaps.  Many have learned to be swift with confident solutions on-the-fly or risk ruining entire projects.

If you have little experience with resin installation, online wisdom may suffice for simple jobs.  But many resin floor projects need adaptive insight that an online guide simply cannot provide.

By proceeding with a DIY installation, you must be prepared to pay the costs of a botched floor.  If your contractor ruins your floor, it is their fault.  If you ruin your new floor, you have no one to blame but yourself.

Still, doing it yourself is possible.

Just be sure to take extra precaution before you begin.

How To Install Resin Flooring

Your DIY resin floor installation begins with a step-by-step plan from start to finish.

Disclaimer: Your manufacturer’s specific guidelines should always be referenced before starting the installation.  The process we detail here will explain many common floor application methods.  Your needs and requirements may vary.

Resin flooring requires preparation and diligent action for proper installation.  Every step, tool, and material is critical to getting an attractive, durable result.

Be mindful that every resin has widely varied traits, such as viscosity and bonding strength.  You should only proceed once you’ve chosen the right resins for your floor.

Also, be aware that some resin floor systems need a modified installation process.  These can include most decorative resin flooring systems, which we’ll cover later.

For most resin installations, you can break it down into seven steps:

1. Prep your space and surface.
2. Prime your substrate.
3. Seal your substrate.
4. Patch your floor.
5. Mix resin components.
6. Apply the base coats.
7. Finish with the topcoat and cure.

Step 0: Before Starting

Planning your resin floor installation is your top priority before doing any work.  The success of your install is defined by how effectively you use the curing time window.  Carefully plan the steps, tools, and team size needed to install your selected type of resinous floor.  Preparing before you start will reduce costly errors.

Take a moment to run through this checklist before you begin installing your resin floor.

You’ll thank yourself (and your wallet) for being cautious before the process.

• Start your install plan based on your available work time.  This is defined by your resin’s cure time, the steps needed to apply the flooring, and your team size.
• Determine the team size you’ll need to apply the resin floor effectively.  Solo work is possible with smaller spaces and single coat flooring systems.  Larger teams are highly recommended for larger spaces and more complex multi-layer systems.
• Delegate tasks across your team for better time management.  Dividing tasks means your installers are likely to finish before the floor fully cures into an unworkable state.
• Application materials will need to be pre-selected and arranged for ease of use.  Installation is time-sensitive, so all tools must be easily accessible.
• Be aware of your resin’s curing temperature range.  The temperature of your room and all materials will need to be in the temperature range to avoid premature curing.
• Plan the look of your finished floor.  Note any changes or special installing methods needed for your desired finish.
• Proper protection should be worn throughout the entire resin work process.  Eye goggles, long gloves, and safety clothing will protect you from the chemicals.  Spiked shoes or cleats will prevent air pockets as you walk to install.

At any point that you feel unsure, we advise you to consult with a certified contractor.  Second or even third opinions may save you from expensive errors later.

Once you feel you’ve prepared thoroughly, proceed with your floor installation.

Step 1: Prep Your Space and Surface

Before doing work, you’ll want to cover all the baseboards or surrounding walls.

Painter’s tape can be used to protect the walls from undesired splash of your resin.

Surface preparation of your substrate comes next.  First, replace any heavily damaged substrate.  Then, repair any cracks or holes.

To repair your substrate, you’ll fill cracks or holes with a resin patching gel and scrape away the excess.  We’ll come back to this as you may discover more imperfections to patch later.

Abrading the substrate’s surface will improve the adhesion bond of your resin floor.  Use multiple passes of a grinding tool with a gradient of descending grit levels.

Moisture emissions from your floor must also be checked.  Use a test kit to discover if your floor is at risk of improper curing or loosened bonds due to water vapor.

Finalize your surface prep by cleaning the surface of any dust, residues, or oils.  This step helps your floor bond better and avoids any muddy aesthetic in your resin floor.

Step 2: Prime Your Substrate

Priming your substrate is an optional single coat treatment for a stronger resin bond.

Primer is a resin liquid that improves compatibility between your resin and substrate.

Resin floor primers can eliminate any remaining micro-particles for adhesion and better finish.  Dust and grinding residues are the main issues eliminated via a primer.

Your primer can help you identify and treat your substrate for any old contaminants before a full resin floor application.  This will further help you get stronger adhesion.

Holes and other existing wear may be revealed during your primer application.  You should use this opportunity to grout any of these with a patching compound.

Priming reduces your chance of air bubbles as well.  Thicker resin flooring coats may trap air in your concrete slabs.

You should note that the primer may not always be needed.  Primer helps in cases of slow resin absorption, like using non-porous substrates or high viscosity resin coats.

Skipping the priming step can reduce your install time, material, and labor costs.  But, you may reduce the longevity if your resin needs an adherence boost to stick well.

Always weigh the pros and cons of primer before using it in your flooring system.

Step 3: Seal Your Substrate

Substrate sealant is another optional multi-coat treatment for minimizing defects. Sealing the surface of your substrate can create a more consistent floor appearance.

Sealant is used mostly to avoid pinholes and improve the look of the final finish. However, it also helps avoid low-viscosity resin base coats from absorbing too quickly.

Multiple coats of sealant are used if the first application appears spotty across your substrate. A proper seal on your substrate will give a glossy look versus dry or matte.

Skip the sealant if it will reduce the adhesion of your resin floor. You may find that some situations may be actually worse if you use a sealing treatment on your floor.

Again, it is essential to account for the drawbacks of sealant before installing it.

Step 4: Patch Your Floor

Patching pre-existing wear and joints will level out your substrate for a more reliable resin floor bond.

It also reduces air pockets that can ruin your finished floor.

The patch phase fixes the problems you discovered during your primer application.  This includes imperfections like holes and long-term wear in the flooring.

Patching your substrate usually involves a resin-based patch gel and/or concrete repair sand to fill the voids.  Epoxy solutions tend to be popular for their highly-adhesive traits.

For heavier repair like cracks, you may need to chisel the weaker concrete away before applying the gel.  The weak substrate will not adhere well for long-term repair.

After patching, you may need to cycle back to grinding and bring the repair flush with your surface.  It may be advised to redo your prep, primer, and/or sealant.

Step 5: Mix Resin Components

Once your substrate is prepared, you can finally mix your resin parts for installation.

This is where you’ll combine your resin polymers with your hardening materials.

The resin polymer solution is usually referred to as the “A Component.”  This is your base material which contains the pigment and core of your resinous flooring.

The hardening materials are known as the “B Component.”  This half of your resin floor mix causes the floor to harden and bond to the substrate.

First, you’ll check that the mix materials are within the designated temperature range.  Be sure to have all tools and materials readily accessible this point forward.

You’ll pre-mix the A Component for the designated time with an electric hand mixer.  Then, you’ll complete the mix by adding the B Component to the resin polymers.

Your allotted work time starts here, as the chemical reaction begins to cure the mix.

Working swiftly will be essential to get the best results in your resin flooring system.

Step 6: Apply the Base Coats

Each layer of resinous flooring will follow a similar process of application.

Depending on your end goal, you may find yourself applying multiple coats to prep for heavier wear.

Step 6a: The First Pour

The initial pour of your resin mix will be done in bands or ribbons across the substrate.  You’ll pour the solution in a steady, gradual stream along the workspace.

Distributing the material will leave a few bare spots at first, but that’s okay.  Your next step will be to spread the material to cover the whole floor.

Step 6b: Spreading the Resin

You will use a flat rubber squeegee tool to pull material side-to-side with no pressure on the material.

Meanwhile, a second installer will use a small porcupine roller to push the material into the areas around walls and corners.

Step 6c: Rolling the Resin

Rolling the full resin-covered area follows after spreading it.

Once you’ve allowed the resin to settle for a while, you’ll use a large porcupine roller to even out the material.

As you roll, this will cover any bare spots on the floor and push out any air bubbles.  Pigments may appear monotone as you roll, but this will settle and reveal your intended design as the flooring cures.

Spiked shoes are essential here since they create smaller holes in the resin floor.  As you walk across it, the holes will be easy to cover as you use the roller.

Step 6d: Rolling the Resin for a Second Time

Rolling a second time will continue to push out air bubbles and level the material.  A short wait after you complete your first roll, you will repeat the process again.

Repeating the rolling process may be done a few more times as the flooring cures.  Take careful steps while traveling around the space as the floor will be slippery.

Step 7: Finish with the Topcoat and Cure

The topcoat will cover your resin floor and apply the desired finish to your area.

This is the layer that will receive the most contact, so be mindful of how you’ll interact with it when selecting your resin type.

Application of the topcoat is done just like the base coats that preceded it.  You’ll, of course, need to allow the completed floor to cure for it’s entire hardening time.

During curing, the floor will be unsuitable for use as it will still be wet and tacky.  Your resin of choice will decide how long you must wait before resuming normal activities.

For most floors, these steps will give you a full install.  But some floors, like decorative resin solutions, need more work to get your ideal finished result.

Decorative Resin Floor Application Methods

Decorative resin floors require extra steps due to the addition additives.

To get your desired surface finish and look for your floor, your additives are key.  You’ll need to be attentive to the size, application method, and the timing of applying your additives.

Popular resinous flooring additives include:

• Color Quartz Granules
• Ceramic-Coated Quartz
• Vinyl Color Flakes

If you’re installing a textured or visually robust resin flooring system, you’ll likely use one of the methods below.

Broadcast

The broadcast method is a process in which you manually toss small aggregate onto a floor coated with the wet resin mix.  This gives a bumpier texture to your surface.

The textured surface gives more slip-resistance.  Broadcasting leaves the sand granules more exposed, creating more abrasion.

After primer and resin base coats are applied, your sand additive will be tossed atop.  Allowing it to dry overnight, you’ll then remove any excess with broom and vacuum.

Second applications are optional but may enhance your final look and feel.  Whether you “double-broadcast” or not, be sure to follow-up with another cleanup phase.

The process is finished by applying one or more sealant topcoats over the aggregate.  Thicker sealer coats will create a smoother surface if you want to reduce the texture.

The end result has more physical texture and monotonality than other resin floors.

Trowel

The trowel method spreads an aggregate-resin mix by hand with a trowel tool.  Larger sand aggregate is more covered by the resin for a smoother speckled floor.

The flatter surface is more durable and faster to install but requires more care to apply.  Keeping it level across large spaces may need a power trowel to avoid flaws.

Resin-aggregate blends serve as the base coat and finished like a normal resin floor.  You’ll have a thicker material with the consistency of heavy, saturated sand.

Designing your floor is generally easier as a result of the thickness of the resin mix.  Since it uses a larger aggregate, your work is more visible and attention-grabbing.

You’ll have a mosaic aesthetic with all the practical benefits of a basic resin floor.

Slurry

Slurry coats carry traits of both trowel and broadcast application.  The fine sand used gives you a choice of a subtle or smooth texture with a very uni-color appearance.

Slurry filler is added to the resin mix similar to troweling.  The filler is usually a powder or some form of graded silica sand.  Application is done just like normal resin flooring.

You may opt to broadcast more silica sand onto the wet resin floor.  Additional sand can give more consistency to the look of your floor with a light texture to the surface.

Before you finish with a topcoat, you can allow the base coat to cure and grind the surface smooth.  This will remove the extra texture from your broadcasting process.

Takeaways on DIY Resinous Floor Installation

In summary, you should plan with care if you choose to install your own resin floor.

Let’s cover the main points you’ve learned:

• Certified professionals should always be considered for any resin floor project.
• Consulting with a pro for follow-up opinions is important if you need input on your unique situation.
• Plan your team, tools, and materials before doing any work for your new floor.
• Be mindful of your expected downtime, and do not rush the installation.
• Maximize your floor lifespan by selecting compatible resin types for each layer.
• Decorative resin floors require extra steps to complete your desired look.

Ultimately, you should always consider a certified pro resin floor contractor.  If you proceed, you will be assuming all the risks and costs of DIY installation.

If you need more assistance, contact a resin floor system professional for advice on your specific needs.

Final Disclaimer: You should follow your product manufacturer’s guidelines over any external advice. Our guide covers most standard practices used by professional contractors. But, some may vary greatly for your products.

Know someone who is considering installing a resinous floor themselves?  Please share this post with them.  Or, if you have questions or comments, you can leave them below.  And of course, if you want a truly brilliant resinous floor, be sure to check out our selection of flooring aggregates.

Types of Resinous Floors: The Difference Between PMMA, PU, Epoxy & Their Sub Types

Check out the original post - Types of Resinous Floors: The Difference Between PMMA, PU, Epoxy & Their Sub Types - from The Best Aggregate Supplier in the USA or read it below.

You better choose the right type of resinous floor if you want to get the most bang for your buck.

Resinous flooring types span a variety of uses cases.  Your choice of floor system type and the resin layer types within will define the quality of your protection.  Certain characteristics are only available with some system types and resin types.  So, you’ll have to match your uses to the appropriate floor types.

We know browsing all the different resin floor types can be a confusing task.

The resins in your floor system should be planned based on the needs of each layer.  In an effective system, each level needs a resin type optimized for long-term use.

In this article, we’ll guide you through the essentials of popular resin flooring types.

Here are some of the questions this article will answer:

• What is a resin flooring system made of?
• Is there a difference between decorative and industrial resin floors?
• What are the pros and cons of each resin floor type?
• What will a resin flooring system cost me?
• How do I choose the right resin floor type for me?

As always, it’s best we start you off with some of the basics.

Resin Flooring Systems Overview

Before picking a resin floor type, you should know how these floors are built.

Resin flooring is a system of one or more fluid layers that solidify for an attractive and damage-resistant surface.  You can get the best performance by choosing a compatible resin suited for each floor level.  You would choose to use a resin floor for simple maintenance, specialized hazard protection, or custom designs.

Resin floors are the ideal solution for extended life during decades of heavy wear.  These are built to withstand all types of damages while requiring minimal upkeep.

In each layer, your flooring system may contain different resins and sand additives.  Your substrate, base coats, and topcoats take priority.  Other layers may be equally necessary based on your situation and future use cases.

To customize a resin floor, you’ll select compatible resin types to prevent premature damage and visual defects.  You can also add designs if you include sand additives.

These are just the core basics of how resin floors function.

Read More: Everything You Need to Know About Resinous Floors

From here, we'll assume you have a firm grasp on the basics.

Types of resin flooring

Your resin type will be the most important decision when installing your resin floors.

Resin flooring can include different materials for custom decorative and practical attributes.  The core attributes depend on your choice of resin and sand additives applied during the initial mixing.  The best approach is to identify the biggest hazards or visual needs your facilities have and find a resin floor to match.

As you browse various resins and floor systems, keep in mind the daily activity that will occur in your spaces.  Your floors will endure years of wear, so plan accordingly.  Get it right and your floor could last for decades.

Durability is generally the number one factor that should influence your decision.

You’ll want to consider equipment heat or heavy vehicle and foot traffic over multiple years.  Some industries also produce chemical byproducts and animal fats or grease.  These can all affect how long your specific resin will last.

The question is:

"What type of resistance is most important for me?"

Let’s begin with an overview of resin floor types before diving into the specifics.

Types of industrial resin flooring explained

Industrial resin flooring is grouped into system types and resin types.  Resin systems are all industrial and can be modified for decorative appeal.  Resin types within your system each have unique properties.  For the best performance, you’ll pair compatible resins based on where they’ll be used in your floor system.

Resin flooring types are best understood if viewed as system types and types of resins.  Due to the overlapping language, we’ll unpack a few definitions first.

As explained earlier, resin flooring systems are a collective of multiple resin layers.

Industrial resin flooring systems are named for their heavy-duty durability.  All resin floors are industrial, and optimized for specific advantages based on the resin layers used.  You can expect any resin system to be easy on maintenance and potentially customized for your heaviest use cases.

Decorative resin flooring systems are visually altered industrial resin floor systems.  These systems include colored quartz sand or other additives into the system for aesthetic designs.  This additional material can embed logos, text, or abstract appeal to liven up your floors.  Some practical perks may also apply, like non-slip resistances due to better traction.

Within any given resin flooring system, each layer serves a different purpose.

Resin types are the substances that compose each layer of the flooring system.  As such, resin types must be chosen to build the best solution for your intended uses.

Let’s dive deeper to help you decide which resins are ideal for your flooring system.

PMMA (Polymethyl methacrylate)

Polymethyl methacrylate is a synthetic resin also known as PMMA, acrylic, or acrylic glass.  This resin acts as a glass-like shatterproof surface with fast install times.  For industries in need of long durability with minimal repair downtime, PMMA is an ideal choice.  It can be further enhanced via other chemical protections.

PMMA may be recognized as common product brand names like Plexiglas or Lucite.  Useful in many different cases, PMMA has industrial strength perfect for flooring.

Resistances offered by PMMA floors include anti-slip, electrical, impact and hygiene.  For stronger chemical resistances, additives can be used to improve this property.

Pros

• Rapid cure time means you’ll need minimal downtime to install PMMA.  This is ideal for factory or production settings that can’t disrupt operations during days of curing.
• Chemical and UV resistance of PMMA gives an advantage over other resins.  Protections include lactic acids and sulfuric acids, which damage epoxy and PU, respectively.
• Sub-zero curing is also possible with PMMA resins.  As a result, you’ll experience less hassle working in freezer areas or spaces with little heating compared to other resins.
• Flexible upgrades and repairs are easy with PMMA resin flooring.  As a thermoplastic resin, it can be melted back into a liquid state to be reworked or recoated as needed.
• Outdoor durability is great with PMMA due to its weather-resistant properties.  These floors don’t become weakened easily and remain stable in a variety of climates.

Cons

• Extreme heat can ruin your floor due to PMMA’s thermoplasticity.  Bakeries and other facilities with industrial ovens are particularly at risk of issues with this resin type.
• High contaminant emissions from PMMA are a flammability and odor hazard during installation.  As a result, you’ll require air filtration that can increase labor costs.
• Initial costs of PMMA floors can be higher than comparable resin flooring systems.  While you save on long-term repair costs, upfront pricing should still be considered.
• Adhesive qualities of PMMA are not as strong as other solutions like Epoxy and PU.  Your resin floor may experience a shorter lifespan if the substrate bond is weaker.

Use Cases

Facilities with high activity and a lack of downtime flexibility are great candidates for PMMA flooring. These can include medical labs, food production, and car parks.

Costs

Your PMMA floors will likely be in the higher-range of resin floor installation pricing.  Basic PMMA costs are on average higher than PU and epoxy per square foot.

We’ve detailed a few of the standard costs for PMMA floors below.

Installation

Simple DIY applications like sealant for a small garage cost much less than a multi-layer thick coat system.  Resin base coats cost more, but other layers may be at lower rates.

Installation for your floor may have other hidden or unexpected costs.  As you plan your resin flooring, research and discuss with pros to uncover any problems before you begin.

We’ll cover the other expenses of resin flooring installations shortly.

Repair

PMMA repair is a thermoplastic, so the floor may be able to simply be reheated and reworked.  This is a unique advantage over PU and epoxy, both of which can only be removed and replaced.

We like to look at the repair costs as baked into the upfront installation charges.  Although you pay higher initially, you’re actually paying for a more flexible floor life.

Maintenance

PMMA maintenance is easy by design, with little work to keep it clean and scuff-free.

You will need to clean it periodically just like any surface.  Just be sure to plan ahead by budgeting for the tools you’ll need to clean properly.

Once a day,it is advised to clean with some dust mopping and vacuuming, along with damp mopping.  Weekly spot cleaning can be done to hit problem areas.  These are basic cleaning tools you can easily obtain for cheap.

Monthly machine scrubbing will give you a deeper cleaning for the entire floor.  Scrubbing machines can be pricey, especially if you’re spending over $2000 to clean a large commercial space.

Quarterly dry buffing or polishing will get any mild scrapes and scuffs off of your floor.  Again, these machines can be a relatively larger expense.

After a few years you’ll likely want to recoat your entire PMMA floor.  These floors don’t require the remove-replace procedure like PU and epoxy floors, which saves you money.

PU (Polyurethane)

Polyurethane (aka. PU) is resin type that can be used in flooring systems.  It functions as a plastic-like surface with the usual defenses for impact, abrasion, and chemicals.  PU is especially useful for industry floors with direct high heat contact.  Thin film, concrete mortar, and polyaspartic are common variants of PU.

PU flooring may be referred to as urethane.  It’s worth noting that this is not accurate as urethane is something else entirely.  Urethane flooring is technically polyurethane flooring.

PU resin flooring systems have safety and durability perks similar to other resin floors. These included but are not limited to impact, non-slip, waterproofing, and chemical protection.

Pros

• High-temperature contact has little effect on PU floors.  These are thermoset resins, meaning liquid sets into permanent plastic that won’t melt.  As a bonus, the temperature tolerance keeps the floor more stable than epoxy.
• Elastic surfaces of PU resist scratching and low temperatures better than Epoxy.  Consider PU if your space endures seasonal freezing or sub-zero indoor cooling.
• Lactic acid resistance gives PU floors a similar advantage to PMMA floors.  These floors are naturally optimized for dairy production, while epoxy floors would degrade.

Cons

• Sensitivity to humidity can put PU floors at risk for a ruined finish.  Well-trained installers are essential to avoid flaws.  These include dimpling or “explosions” in the coating during curing.
• Polyurethane tends to be the most difficult resin to work with.  With a limited pot life and risk of humidity issues, your staff needs to work quick and smart for good results.
• Cure time for PU is much longer than PMMA.  5 days for base and 8-12 hours for overcoats undercuts epoxy cure times but disrupts the use of your space significantly.
• Adherence of PU is not ideal when used as a standalone coating.  It’s recommended to use another resin type for primer or to use this as a topcoat on resin such as epoxy.
• Sulfuric acids will damage PU flooring where other resins have resistances against them.  This degrading can cause the need for premature floor repairs and replacement.
• Difficult repairs and upgrades may be a concern with PU.  These floors can only be fixed after damage by remove-and-replace only, which may interrupt your activities.

Use Cases

Spaces with extreme temperatures and heavy foot traffic may get use from polyurethane.  Bakeries, freezers, and car parks are a few candidates.

Topcoats of PU can provide all the perks without the adhesive drawbacks.  These tend to be used with base coats of epoxy.

Costs

Installing PU floors will likely fall in mid-tier pricing among the other resin choices.  Basic costs on PU floors are usually higher than epoxy but lower than PMMA per square foot.

Let’s begin to unpack the basic expenses of polyurethane floors.

Installation

DIY polyurethane floor installation is going to be cheaper, but at the risk of costly errors.  Meanwhile, certified professionals always have labor costs that inflate your budget.  These charges are a premium you pay to offset the risks of amateur mistakes.

If you’re applying polyurethane primers or sealants, these come at much cheaper costs.  Base coats of PU will be at a higher rate than other layers in your floor system.

Installation can require a larger budget if any additional work or prep is necessary.  These can be anything from reinforcing your substrate to treating your floor for moisture emissions.

We have explained some of these potential costs a bit later in this article.

Repair

Polyurethane floor repairs are only possible via complete removal and reinstallation.

DIY removal and replacement may be less than ideal for some cases.  Sanding away and adding a new floor due to bubbles is fine.  But peeling floors mean the resin didn’t penetrate the concrete properly.  Poor adhesion must be handled properly or you’ll experience the same issue with the new floor.

Professional removal rates can be nearly equal to standard installation rates.  This can effectively double the cost as you put a new floor in.

Maintenance

Polyurethane flooring is easy to keep clean and undamaged with basic care.

Maintaining PU demands very little work, so the costs should be relatively negligible.  Your largest cost may be upfront investments in good scrubbing and buffing machines.

Daily cleanings are done via dust mopping, alongside vacuuming and a bit of damp mopping.  Weekly spot cleanings can remove any remaining dirt buildup.

Monthly machine scrubbing will give a deeper cleaning.  You’ll want to include one of these machines into your budget.  Commercial and industrial scrubbers can be over $2000, while home scrubbers can be as low as $200.

Quarterly, you should dry buff or polish your floor.  Wear on your floor won’t be heavy with most resin solutions, but this will smooth away any light damages.

After about 10 years, removal-and-replacement will be needed for your entire polyurethane floor.  This helps ensure proper adhesion and integrity.

Popular PU Resin Subtypes

Polyaspartic urethane (PAE) is a UV stable modified PU that makes a great high gloss topcoat.  It has a fast cure rate, a high heat tolerance, and strong substrate bonding.  PAE is also low-odor, eliminating the need for air filtration during installs.

Urethane concrete mortar is modified with concrete paste, trowel-grade sand, and other fine grit additives.  Use this for fast curing and more slip resistance when wet.  It also resists moisture emissions, improving adhesion to fresh (aka “green) concrete.

Thin Film Urethane is a low-viscosity resin used as either a primer-supported floor coating or a topcoat.  This thin PU is more flexible and abrasion-resistant than epoxy.

Epoxy

Epoxy is the most popular resin type used in flooring systems.  It resembles plastic with more durability.  Epoxy carries protections for impact, scratches, water, and chemicals.  Epoxy is valued for its phenomenal bonding strength and electrical conductivity.  There are many subtypes of epoxy for different purposes.

Epoxy is widely used as the go-to resin flooring type for most industrial needs.  As it comes in many subtypes, you’ll need to understand each to select your floor properly.

Generally, epoxy and its variants carry similar core properties.  These flooring systems are highly durable, hygienic, and can be modified via additives for your needs.

We’ll start by exploring the basic attributes of an epoxy resin floor.

Then, we’ll examine the unique subtypes of epoxy to help you make the best resin flooring choice.

Pros

• Substrate adhesion is the top benefit of epoxy flooring.  The long cure time causes the resin to fully penetrate the pores of your concrete for superior bonding.
• Sulfuric acid resistance is a deciding perk of epoxy.  Exposure to these types of acids during daily use will not degrade or damage your resin floor system.
• Intense, concentrated heat doesn’t melt epoxy since it is a thermoset resin.  Like PU, epoxy flooring cures from a liquid to a nearly invulnerable plastic.
• Impact and scrapes will rarely damage the very hard surface of epoxy flooring.  This is especially good for protecting underlying concrete from normal wear and accidents.
• Energy-saving lighting benefits can lower your utility bill costs by boosting your reflectivity.  This can brighten your space up to three times higher than your standard lighting.  As a result, you can reduce your facilities’ light wattages or the number of lights you need.

Cons

• Caustic chemicals can damage your epoxy floors, including but not limited to lactic acids.  This makes epoxy flooring less than ideal for dairy production without another resin as a topcoat.
• Epoxy has the longest cure time of all the resin floors, at 7-10 days base coat and 12-24 hours for topcoats.  Longer cure times leave floors vulnerable to bubbles resulting from substrate gas releases.
• Repairs/upgrades are done by complete remove-and-replace only.  Long downtimes for full replacement can be costly to your business, especially if repairs are unplanned.

Use Cases

Epoxy resin is usually best for spaces that have plenty of flooring traffic and impacts.  Consider this flooring type for airplane hangars, showrooms, and warehouses.

To best understand the ideal use cases of epoxy resins in flooring systems, we need to explore its popular subtypes.  Each is customized for specific situations.

Costs

Epoxy flooring installation has lower-end pricing compared to other resin choices.  Basic estimates on epoxy floor costs can run from $2 to $12 per square foot.

We’ve detailed a few of the standard costs for epoxy floors below.

Installation

DIY epoxy flooring done for homes can be $2 to $5 a square foot for materials only.  Commercial applications are unlikely to be installed DIY due to their complexity.

Pro epoxy floor installations vary from $3 to $12 per square foot, including materials and labor.  Commercial installations may be priced on the upper end of this range.

Be mindful that sealants, primers, and other resin forms may be priced differently.  Resin base coats are priced higher, while other layers can be cheaper.

Installation also includes any number of additional costs.  Some of these can take more time and money, from substrate patching to storage unit rental.

We’ll explore the other costs of resin floor installation a bit later in this article.

Repair

Epoxy floor repairs are only possible by remove-and-replace only.

This resin type is thermoset, meaning it is permanently solid on a molecular level.

DIY removal and replacement may be less than ideal for some cases.  Specifically, peeling floors mean the resin didn’t penetrate the concrete properly.  Poor adhesion must be handled properly, or you’ll experience the same issue with the new floor.

Professional removal has its own rates. This can effectively double your costs, as you’ll hire contractors to remove a flawed floor and put a new one in.  However, this may help you discover and confront the root issues that ruined your first floor.

Always weigh the pros and cons of both before making a decision on repairs.  If you feel unsure at all, hiring a certified contractor may be worth the costs.

Maintenance

Epoxy maintenance and cleaning is usually extremely easy.

Aside from the occasional cleaning, you’ll be using the floor with minimal upkeep. Just be sure to plan ahead by budgeting for the tools you’ll need to clean properly.

Once a day you’ll need to do light cleaning via dust mopping and vacuuming, followed by damp mopping. Weekly, you’ll do some spot cleaning for problem areas.

Monthly deep cleaning should be done by machine scrubbing. These machines can run under $200 to over $2000, with the expensive-end for more industrial needs.

Quarterly dry buffing or polishing will get any mild scrapes and scuffs off of your floor.

After around 5 years, you’ll eventually have to remove and replace your entire epoxy floor. You’ll strip the resin with a solution, then install the new epoxy.

Popular Industrial Epoxy Resin Subtypes

Self-Dispersing Epoxy Floors

Epoxy that self-disperses is great against abrasion and impact from heavy vehicles.  Also, adding quartz sand will give your floor non-slip resistances if liquid spills occur.

Self-Leveling Epoxy Floors

Self-leveling epoxy floors cover and levels out over your concrete base floor.  This subtype, known as “sag” flooring, spreads to fill cracks or damage in your substrate.

These self-leveled floors are perfectly seamless and smooth.  Due to its lack of standard roller application, there is no “orange peel” texture like other floors.

Costs tend to be higher with self-leveling epoxy floors.  You’ll use 8 to 10 times more epoxy product than some other types of roller-applied epoxy floor.

Use of self-leveled floors is best for easy application with small or inexperienced teams.  Durability is high with these thicker floors, so apply this for great impact and scratch resistance.

Thixotropic Epoxy Floors

Thixotropic epoxy is a “non-sag” resin that does not spread on application.  This trait allows the installer to manually spread and level it for a wide scope of uses.

Uses can include patching, standalone floor coats, and topcoats.  Basic epoxy traits are included, and installers can use a special roller to add a stippled non-slip finish.

Areas with fast-paced foot traffic are ideal for thixotropic epoxy floors.  Fire stations and medical facilities can benefit from the durability and safety of this type of resin system.

Mortar Epoxy Floors

Mortar epoxy flooring is a mix of 100% solid epoxies and graded quartz sand.  This provides the strongest reinforcement to your substrate’s crack and existing wear.

Mortar forms of epoxy are valuable for endurance in high traffic spaces.  This can include warehouses, commercial kitchens, garages, and manufacturing plants.

Electrostatic Charge Resistant (ESD) Epoxy Floors

ESD epoxy flooring is also known as anti-static due to its ability to gather static electricity.  This property is the result of adding conductive compounds to the epoxy.

Spaces with flammable materials and electronics need static reduction.  Use this for computer manufacturing, chemical or pharmaceutical facilities, and healthcare.

Elastomeric Epoxy-Urethane Floors

Elastomeric epoxy-urethane is a resin hybrid that is waterproof and absorbs impact.  It is optimized to be elastic like PU but with epoxy hardness for heavy-duty durability.

Use cases include waterproof underlayments or coatings for shock absorption.  Protection for frequent stress is great in high traffic areas.  These may be in warehouses, parking garages, and mechanical equipment spaces.

Popular Decorative Epoxy Resin Subtypes

Quartz-filled epoxy floors

Quartz-filled epoxy flooring includes an additive of colored quartz or ceramic-coated quartz.  Broadcast application helps it function as a slip-resistant floor due to extra traction.

Uses for quartz-filled floors include locker rooms, restrooms, cafeterias.  You may also consider areas such as lobbies, offices, and showrooms. Industrial use is also acceptable.

Flake epoxy floors

Flake epoxy floors are based on the addition of vinyl color chips or flakes for a vibrant multicolor finish.  The flakes also add slight grooves for slip reduction functionality.

Ideal uses include locker rooms, sports venues, showrooms.  Additionally, you can apply to clinics and commercial kitchens.  Like other decorative types, these can double as industrial floors.

Graveled epoxy floors

Graveled epoxy floors have gravel or quartz additives for a more attractive appearance.

Main uses for this flooring subtype include adding decorative details into your floor.  Logos, branding, or arrows are all possible with graveled epoxy.

Terrazzo epoxy floors

Terrazzo epoxy floors are composed of pigmented marble chips, glass, or granite.  You may have decorative saw cuts in the floor to enhance the visual appeal.

Common spaces for these floors include halls and entrances of public buildings and schools.  You would choose this floor if you need a visually elaborate design.

Additional costs of resin floor installation

Your resin floor budget will likely include more than just the standard install rates.

Regardless of your resin choices, you may be faced with unexpected prep and repairs.  These costs can hit early in the process, long before any resin application.

Basic Cost Factors

Resin viscosity can increase the price by 2x-3x for solid, more durable resin compounds.  Water-based is the cheapest and weakest, while 100% solid resin is the strongest and most expensive.  Water-based and solvent-based are easier to apply but may wear down sooner.

Containment systems may cost you time and money to contain and eliminate odors and air contaminants.  High VOC (volatile organic compound) epoxy will release harmful gases during installation.  You’ll need proper ventilation and respirators for all within the work area.  Solvent-based epoxy falls in this category.

Special application methods will require extra labor.  Troweling, sprayers and other specialty equipment will bring your total costs a bit higher than the standard rates.  These costs are usually related to decorative floors or unique finishes.

Sand additives can also drive costs higher if you’re doing a decorative application.  Broadcast, trowel, or slurry floors all require some form of aggregate.  Rocks, pebbles, color flakes, or any grit of sand will each have its own costs to include in your budget.

Painting concrete substrate is an optional decorative feature.  You can paint if you’d like to make designs or text beneath a transparent resin floor.

Foundation Cost Factors

Substrate patching may be necessary to create a level, solid surface for the resin to adhere to.

Concrete resurfacing/refinishing helps your resin floor adhere long after application.  This cost may be required if your surface isn’t level or smooth.

Substrate structural repair is especially costly.  It must be handled if your concrete has compromised integrity.  You may need evaluations of structure and soil. Some cases may need underpinning or other repairs to the foundation.

Installation of a new concrete substrate may be needed if your existing floor is in bad shape.  As resin flooring is not standalone, your foundation must be strong.  Concrete that is too brittle or damaged to be reliable must be replaced, which can make your costs much steeper.

Sealing concrete before applying base coats or after painting the concrete is an extra cost to consider.  It may be one of your only costs if you just need light protection for outdoor concrete or a home garage.

Miscellaneous Cost Factors

Downtime may be the biggest cost of all, especially if installation disrupts your business operations.  Your space will be virtually unusable until the floor can support the stress of foot traffic and various equipment.  This can cut into your business profits.

Storage unit rental may be needed if you have no room for your displaced home belongings or commercial equipment. Since complete installation can take one or more weeks, you may want to consider factoring this into your costs.

Application errors for existing resin floors will require removal before you can do a new installation.  If you or your contractor makes mistakes, this will also require repair or reinstallation.  Either case takes time, materials, and labor to complete.

This cost list is not comprehensive, so you should be cautious of other hidden costs.

Always budget with room to cover additional installation costs.  Be sure to discuss these aspects with your contractor and learn your options for floor types.

How to Choose the RIGHT Type of Resin Floor

Choosing a resin flooring type requires you to consider costs, uses, and ease of installation.  Each resin type has unique perks for each use case.  If you select the right floor, you can avoid costly repairs and time-consuming maintenance. 

You should always try to choose based on performance needs over initial cost.  Lower maintenance costs can offset a higher upfront charge for your flooring system.

Daily use of your floor can define how durable your resin choice will be long-term.  Proper protection lowers the frequency of high-cost, disruptive repairs.  Always guard against chemicals, along with heavy foot and vehicle traffic.

Ease of installation is also something to consider during your resin selection.  Complex multi-coat floors need more installers and have more windows for error.

User maintenance may be the most essential part of your flooring system.  This includes cleaning and durability, as both may reduce the usefulness of your floor.

Takeaways on resinous flooring types

In summary, resinous flooring is a safe, hygienic, attractive and durable floor solution.

To recap, you’ve learned the following:

• Resin flooring systems are a series of durable plastic-like coatings atop a concrete floor.
• Resin floors have unique parts that use unique properties to form a complete unit.
• Installing resin flooring is time-sensitive and should be done by knowledgeable staff.
• Industrial and decorative resin floors are different only in visuals. This is due to the use of additives.
• Each resin type has its own unique properties to customize the floor for your needs.
• You can mix-and-match resins for various layers to optimize your floor system’s benefits.

Ultimately, you’ll want to choose your floor based on what your floor will endure during use.

If you need more assistance, contact a resin floor system professional for advice on your specific needs.

Know someone who trying to decide between PMMA, PU, and Epoxy?  Please share this post with them.  Or, if you have questions or comments, you can leave them below.  And of course, if you're in the market for superior resinous solutions, be sure to check out our selection of flooring aggregates.